One of our clients said, if you want an ordinary garment, you can go anywhere, you want something special, you come to UDESHI. We appreciated the comment, but that got us thinking, what do we do that is so extraordinary? We strive for our garments to be extremely comfortable, exceptionally soft and feather light but still form fitting. Is that enough to make them that different? How does one go the next step to make the lightest, softest jacket possible? One can use lighter linings, and softer canvases, but these are only incremental changes, not game changers.
We thought we would start at the very beginning and discard everything, all internals and just start with the fabric of the garment, and finish with the fabric and a little bias tape to bind the seams, that is it. There is no sleeve lining, no shoulder lining, no wadding in the sleeve crown, no canvas, no collar lining, no domette, nada, nothing, nix. This results in the lightest, softest possible garment for the given fabric, with finished jackets weighing less than a metre of suiting fabric on its own. Shape and form is given through skillful cutting and darts that create volume.
Light and simple doesn’t have to mean plain and boring though. The outside breast pockets have our “barchetta” curvature to the opening that shows a little more of the pocket square, and we have created a unique design for the patch side and ticket pockets as well, with the patch ticket pocket designed to hold a lighter or a small set of keys. The unstructured concept was extended to casual items such as our take on the traditional duffle coat, a casual reefer jacket, peacoat, trench coats and overcoats.
Our duffle corto, a lighter and shorter version of a duffle coat features generous double vents, closing lapels and loop closures made of marine grade braided hemp cord sourced from a supplier who has been selling ropes for over four hundred years. Our shawl reefer, a shorter, double breasted version of our duffle corto features Austrian horn toggles carved on the foot of the Austrian alps and closable hidden side pockets, ideal for lounging by the fire in an alpine hut or running an errand on a café racer bike.
These garments and coats are available single or double breasted on a bespoke, made to order, and ready to wear basis. Ready to wear is available at: www.unstructuredgarments.com