The following images are examples of our work that we have made for clients over the years, real people with dropped shoulders and their own unique body figuration. The garments were not created for the mannequin and thus are not a perfect fit for the mannequin. We hope it will still give you an idea of what we do and how we do it.
Unstructured three piece Shetland tweed from Abraham Moon, cut in a one button notch style with patch pockets, crafted without shoulder pads, lining, canvas or fusing. Just fabric, buttons and sewing thread. The breast pocket is cut with a curved opening and was inspired by a Neapolitan tradition of cutting the opening of the breast pocket like the side profile of a small boat, or barchetta. This detail is mirrored in the side pockets as well. Two button narrow notch lapel jacket with waistcoat, for a client who wanted a 1960s Sean Connery - James Bond look. The lapels are a little narrower than we would normally cut, and the gorge a little more open - the angle between the lapel and collar. The pocket flaps are also shorter to match the narrower lapels. We used thin shoulder pads with a soft roped shoulder, and soft body canvas for comfort. The breast pocket has our curved barchetta opening as the client didn't want an exact replica of a 1960s suit.A softer Italian tweed check for a very chic lord of the manor three piece with more flamboyant peak lapels and roped shoulders, for a continental client who splits his time between town and country. This suit makes a statement but is very soft with feather light canvases and no shoulder pads. The double breasted waistcoat is a touch more flamboyant than a conventional single breasted vest. A nice finishing touch are the turn back cuffs which also have a practical side to them, as when those are worn through, they can be removed and the cuff underneath will be as new, doubling the life span of the sleeve of the jacket. Navy cashmere chalk stripe fabric we unearthed in Manhattan's garment district a decade ago, this sumptuously soft cashmere was cut in to a one button peak lapel jacket with matching waistcoat. The jacket was cut with roped sleeve heads for a more formal look.
The stripes on the lapel and collar match on both sides, something that requires a lot of skill and patience. Once you know, you cannot "unsee" it and you will never be able to look at a striped jacket in the same way again. Just one of our signature bespoke touches. We used a lining inspired by the Financial Times "pink pages" with our signature red pocket welts, and fabric surround. The fabric around the welt is a nice finishing touch and also reinforces the pocket area. A two button peak lapel jacket made of light weight chocolate silk, featuring a fabric faced inside made with very soft canvas. This jacket has shoulder pads as the wearer wanted a strong shoulder with prominent roped shoulders. The double breasted waistcoat is made of the end piece of a long discontinued vintage wool silk linen blend that features hand polished corozo buttons.An English gentleman's suit for a casual start to the week? The chalk stripe fabric in this particular shade of blue was a limited edition run from Caccioppoli of Naples, commissioned from Vitale Barberis Canonico - the oldest continuously running fabric mill in the world. The blue is not as severe as the traditional navy and was cut with wider lapels and a more generous wrap to give a more 1930s look the suit with a beautiful hourglass shape and a strong shoulder line. The stripes on the lapel and collar of course match on both sides.And the stripes on the pocket flaps match the fabric.Inspired by a World War Two French navy captain’s jacket, the buttons are placed to form a “V” that visually creates more of an hour glass appearance, over a standard 8DB3 that tends to look more like a block if the buttons are placed in a parallel setting. Unlined and without shoulder pads, this blazer is soft but still imposing. We replaced the typical brass buttons with cobalt dyed mother of pearl buttons for a more contemporary look. We also softened the lapel and gave it a "belly" - more body by making it curved instead of straight, and added our signature barchetta breast pocket.This blazer has no lining and instead has the facing extended to the armhole. The sleeve lining has to match the cloth as any other colour would show through the open weave of the fabric.An exceptionally lightweight seven ounce Super 160s Escorial one button dinner suit with matching waistcoat. During formal events, especially award ceremonies with many attendees, there can be many powerful lights on in a venue, raising the room temperature considerably. One doesn't want to be the only guy in the room without a jacket on. This jacket is that light and comfortable that you may even forget you are wearing a jacket in the first place.
When a little warmth or more formality is required, the matching waistcoat with a rounded opening comes in to play. This jacket features a turn back cuff in the same fabric as the lapels, as a certain Sean Connery wore in the 1962 film Dr. No.For more casual settings, many of our clients wear a dinner jacket in black velvet or other colours. To make it stand out a little, we have trimmed not only the lapels, but also the breast and side pocket welts in the facing fabric with plain satin, a repp facing (ribbed) or even a moire finish as on these two dinner jackets.An example of one of our great coats cut in a vintage melton, featuring a one piece back with box pleats and adjustable half belt. Based on a World War Two military coat, this style is elegant and functional. This coat is made without shoulder pads and soft canvases. We have made a few in Casentino and various vintage cashmeres.
The collar has throat hooks that can be closed to keep the elements out. With the collar up, one should be as snug as a bug in a rug.A variation on a great coat based on a Russian World War Two coat that replaces the buttons with hooks for a cleaner appearance. Made of a vintage camel hair twill, this coat is warm and soft, and with its shorter length is a little more rakish. There is also a hidden hook between the lapel and collar, allowing the collar to be closed and turned down for "ceremonial" duties or turned up to keep the elements out.The side pockets are cut in our crescent pocket style that are very clean, minimalistic and comfortable. The inside breast pockets are in our slanted style so that they can be easily accessed when the coat is partially closed. We wanted a little bit of fun on the inside and refused to go completely minimalistic everywhere. The printed lining features the inside art work of vintage cigar boxes, as the wearer of this coat is a big cigar smoker.Double breasted cashmere pea coat in double brushed vintage navy cashmere, based on a west German navy issued pea coat, with closing lapels and the iconic curved side pockets. This coat is made without shoulder pads and just has a light body and chest canvas. The inside has no lining and the facing is extended for additional warmth. We have added our signature inside breast pockets that can be accessed when the coat is buttoned up, and a key holder.
The curved or crescent side pockets are a faithful replica of the pockets found on Oscar's original coat he had at university and is now over sixty years old. The pocket is very comfortable and tends to be stronger than a straight pocket. The "D" ring in the lower inside pocket is a convenient place to clip on keys, torches or other small items of daily carry.Single breasted fly front navy cashmere top coat, an example of our classic coat offering, made in typical Savile Row fashion. It has a generous wrap (front overlap) and features angled side pockets with a ticket pocket. The breast pocket is cut straight. It features side vents, something usually never seen on a coat.