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Pea Coat

Oscar during his first term at university acquired a German Naval pea coat from the late 1960s, which he more or less lived in during the colder London months. The wide double breasted wrap, and closing lapels kept the elements at bay. The banana or crest pockets were unique and ergonomic, and great to keep one's hands warm. Three decades later and countless repairs, Oscar still has the coat, but wanted a better, more comfortable and flattering fit, without the bulky shoulder pads, and of course made in other fabrics, which he could offer his clients.

This is that coat, reinterpreted in our unstructured style. We kept the coat's curved "banana" shaped outside pockets, the closing collar to keep the elements out, and it's waisted shape. The placement of the front buttons in a subtle "V"shape follows the original and accentuates the chest and slims the waist.

We removed the thick woolen lining, canvas and shoulder pads, and added angled inside breast pockets that can even be accessed when the coat is closed. We removed all the stuffiness, and cut the coat in a soft Loro Piana navy cashmere wool coating.

The shorter coat length makes it ideal for running errands and one doesn’t sit on the coat when seated, but is long enough to protect one’s bottom from the cold. A great weekend, or more casual overcoat. This garment has been cut as a coat and if you intend to wear it without a jacket or thick knit wear, we recommend you order a size down from your usual jacket size.

Made of Italian Loro Piana cashmere 20% and wool 80%, outside of Porto, Portugal. Available on our website and can be ordered in other fabrics at our store or trunk shows.

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Barchetta Blazer

Our Barchetta Blazer is our version of a soft unstructured jacket. Oscar always wanted to make the lightest and softest jackets possible. There is no competition nor prize, but intellectual curiousity, and to push the limits of what is possible.

We started and ended with fabric, sowing thread and buttons. That is it. There are no shoulder pads, no padding, no lining, no canvas, no plastic, just the bare essentials.

This is a clean sheet design. We didn't take an existing jacket and try to engineer it backwards, like Giorgio Armani famously removing the stuffing from a jacket. Our jacket is more of a shell than a whole jacket. It is soft and weightless. Many of our clients comment that they don't feel that they are wearing a jacket.

We cut a one piece front, the way jackets used to be made over a century ago. This requires more fabric but removes a whole seam that would need to be finished which adds bulk and weight. We couldn't have that now.

The blazer sits at the neck points not at the shoulders like most jackets which ensures a better fit in our opinion, and further enhances the feeling of weightlessness.

udeshi barchetta blazer side pocket ticket

The jacket is crafted with a notch lapel, patch pockets and a patch ticket pocket that caused quite a stir when we introduced it over a decade ago. Side vents and functioning cuffs complete this jacket. The curved breast pocket which mimics the profile of a small boat - a barchetta in Italian, also gave its name to this jacket.

udeshi barchetta blazer breast pocket

Our Barchetta Blazer can be worn as a separate jacket / blazer, or combined with matching khakis in to a casual suit. For summer we craft quite a few seersucker suits, and winter we cut corduroy, moleskin and tweed versions - including rare Scottish tweeds. We also cut jackets in jersey fabrics which make great travel jackets, are decadently comfortable and still retain their shape. These are available to order during one of our trunk shows. If you would like to know more about our unstructured approach, more information can be found here:  https://udeshi.co.uk/blogs/news/the-unstructured-approach

udeshi barchetta suit


 

 

 

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