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Tracht

To celebrate the opening of our new Salzburg store, we created our version of a tracht or traditional Austrian / Bavarian jacket. Traditionally these jackets have been ornate, thickly padded and lined. We have removed all of that and created our version on the basis of our popular barchetta blazer. There are no shoulder pads, no internal structure, no lining, nothing. Shape and form is created through skillful cutting and sewing. The jacket is closer in feel to an overshirt than a jacket.

We have retained the practical patch barchetta pockets, of our blazer, which are also lighter and less bulky than set in pockets. The collar stand is low so that the shirt collar is clearly visible over the collar, and the stand and front are rounded, which creates a softer look and is longer lasting than a sharp corner.

The basic form, for us the essence, has been retained, without the schnick schnack as one says in Austrian. There are no extraneous details. This item is available made to order, and can be ordered by email, in store, or at one of our trunk shows. 


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Barchetta Blazer

Our Barchetta Blazer is our version of a soft unstructured jacket. Oscar always wanted to make the lightest and softest jackets possible. There is no competition nor prize, but intellectual curiousity, and to push the limits of what is possible.

We started and ended with fabric, sowing thread and buttons. That is it. There are no shoulder pads, no padding, no lining, no canvas, no plastic, just the bare essentials.

This is a clean sheet design. We didn't take an existing jacket and try to engineer it backwards, like Giorgio Armani famously removing the stuffing from a jacket. Our jacket is more of a shell than a whole jacket. It is soft and weightless. Many of our clients comment that they don't feel that they are wearing a jacket.

We cut a one piece front, the way jackets used to be made over a century ago. This requires more fabric but removes a whole seam that would need to be finished which adds bulk and weight. We couldn't have that now.

The blazer sits at the neck points not at the shoulders like most jackets which ensures a better fit in our opinion, and further enhances the feeling of weightlessness.

udeshi barchetta blazer side pocket ticket

The jacket is crafted with a notch lapel, patch pockets and a patch ticket pocket that caused quite a stir when we introduced it over a decade ago. Side vents and functioning cuffs complete this jacket. The curved breast pocket which mimics the profile of a small boat - a barchetta in Italian, also gave its name to this jacket.

udeshi barchetta blazer breast pocket

Our Barchetta Blazer can be worn as a separate jacket / blazer, or combined with matching khakis in to a casual suit. For summer we craft quite a few seersucker suits, and winter we cut corduroy, moleskin and tweed versions - including rare Scottish tweeds. We also cut jackets in jersey fabrics which make great travel jackets, are decadently comfortable and still retain their shape. These are available to order during one of our trunk shows. If you would like to know more about our unstructured approach, more information can be found here:  https://udeshi.co.uk/blogs/news/the-unstructured-approach

udeshi barchetta suit


 

 

 

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