Cloths from over twenty Austrian, British and Italian mills including camelhairs, cashmeres, vicunas, casentino, double face and loden fabrics are available to be crafted in to one of our bespoke overcoats.
Our overcoats are hand cut with a one piece front that we feel is cleaner and more elegant, and hand canvassed with soft, light canvas and chest canvas. Depending on the client’s physique and preferences, they are often made without shoulder pads or only minimal padding. We craft our coats to be as light and as elegant as possible, creating a weightless yet comforting garment like one’s childhood blanket.
Our double breasted coats feature slanted internal breast pockets, that allow access to the contents of the pocket even when the double breasted coat is closed – a detail we spotted in a US navy peacoat from the Fifties. Special pockets can be specified to hold cigar cases, mobile phones and other essentials of modern life. We often cut the internal pocket welts in a contrasting lining to highlight them. The outside breast pocket welt can be cut curved, like a little Italian boat in profile, known as a barchetta breast pocket. Single and double breasted coat styles can be created as well as trench coats and belted polo style coats.
One of our signature styles, the “Great Coat” is based on World War Two army coats. The initial pattern was drafted for us by a tailor specializing in cutting for the armed forces. They feature a one piece back with two inverted box pleats – the first in the across back, allowing the firing of a rifle, the second below the waist for freedom of movement. Also by having an unvented back, the warmth doesn’t escape as easily through the vents. The closing lapels block out the elements further and form a protective layer against wind, sleet and snow.
Oscar believes menswear should be functional, and he has amassed a small collection of vintage military garments from different periods for their cut and details such as closing lapels, buttoning vents and storm yokes that help keep the elements out. This knowledge of history and attention to detail result in an overcoat from Udeshi being quite unique. We currently carry overcoating fabrics from: Abraham Moon, Bateman & Ogden, Caccioppoli, Charles Clayton, Drago, Dugdale, Fratelli Tailla di Delfino, Fox Brothers, H. Lesser & Sons, Harrisons, Holland & Sherry, Hunt & Winterbotham, John Foster, Joshua Ellis, Kynloch, Leichtfried Loden, Pongees, Reid & Taylor, Scabal, Smith Woollens, Standeven, T.A.C.S., W Bill and William Halstead. Prices start from £2995.