“Shape without weight” is the way one of our client’s described his Udeshi jacket. We strive to make a soft, comfortable jacket that still looks sharp and has shape. The shape is created through skillful cutting and careful sewing, not padding, and lining. The softness and comfort come from using the lightest canvases and linings sewn with a gentle and accurate hand, often with only minimal shoulder pads or none at all. We tend to work with lighter than average fabrics (that require greater skill) starting at six ounces as opposed to the West End norm of nine ounces plus.
We work closely with over two dozen fabric merchants and mills and carry Scottish cashmeres, Escorial wools and tartans, Huddersfield Frescos, mohairs and Solaros, Irish linens, West of England flannels, tropical and silk suitings from Biella, Harris and Shetland tweeds and prints from Como, to name a few of the over eight thousand fabrics available. The inside of the jacket can be lined with English and Italian Bemberg, print or silk linings ranging from discrete tonal linings to match the cloth, Mexican day of the dead skulls, 18th century equestrian watercolours to 1970s nude pinups. There is also a bespoke lining service available.
Clients can then choose from an almost endless list of options: from the shape of their lapels - if they want more curvature or “belly” to arrow straight for a more Mod look, to the size of their breast pocket, and its shape – perhaps they prefer a slight Italian influence with a curved breast pocket welt that mimics the profile of a small Italian boat or “barchetta”. They can specify unusual things such as curved side pockets as specified by the late Duke of Windsor, or special concealed internal pockets which are requested by clients in a certain government department.
A paper pattern is created for every client based on their chosen style and measurements, and any subsequent changes are recorded and incorporated in to future garments. Once the client and Oscar Udeshi are satisfied with the jacket, future jackets may be made straight to finish, bypassing the fitting stage for clients who are unable to visit us in London for a fitting. We would of course prefer to see the client in the finished garment to make sure it is absolutely perfect, but appreciate that this is not always possible.